#2018 chevrolet trax problems code#

My mechanic has confirm with me that this is not the first time he has seen this part missing from other GM vehicles with the same type of engine.

I had tried on several occasions with the dealership where I purchased my vehicle from to have the above problem resolved with negative results. As stated above the check engine light did come on one week prior to the above conditions as a result of this missing/defective part. As a result of this incident I took my vehicle to the nearest mechanical shop had it diagnosed showing multiple error codes and ultimately revealing a missing part ( A rubber nipple ) which was supposed to be inside of the intake. As a result of this defective part it cause my vehicle to vibrate violently, the lost of power, and ultimately stalling out Nearly causing me getting involved with a very serious accident. Next time it comes up, I think I’ll pull over, pop the hood and see if the actuator is stuck in an open position.The non return valve in the intake either broke or fell off( apparently defective) causing my vehicle-€™s check engine light to come and causing multiple error codes. But it I try to trip it and drive hard up long hills, I can get it to come up after about 10 to 20 minutes of driving.

#2018 chevrolet trax problems code#

I went several days after clearing the code without it coming back up. If I drive gently enough, I don’t seem to trip the code. It’s a slight catch but I’m wondering if that’s what causes the CEL to be triggered. The other point seems to be just before being completely closed tight. I doubt that it ever gets open that far though. One would be the extreme wide open where it actually sticks in place and has to be jiggled free. I also checked the wastegate lever again this morning and though it moves freely for most of its range, I did feel it catch at two points. If I have a leak it must be above 10 PSI. Most of the time boost is under about 7 PSI. The highest boost I’ve read driving is about 13 PSI but that is very hard to get to. I couldn’t hear any hissing so there is no obvious leaks. According to the video, it shouldnt’ take less than 20 seconds to go from 20 down to 10 PSI and timing mine, it took about 28 seconds to go from 18 down to 10 psi. However, even at only 18 PSI there is no way it’s holding between 16 and 18 PSI for more than 60 seconds. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it and it seems to swing just fine. I also disconnected the waste gate actuator to see if the lever mighit be stuck. It seems as if the cars computer is turning off the boost, but not telling me why it’s doing this. If the turbo was broken, it would not be able to produce any boost. If it were a vacuum leak, I would think that I would never have boost. I did not clear the code, the engine light was still on, and I had boost.

I tried stopping the car, turning off the engine and then turn it back on to see if the boost would come back and it did. Then a few minutes later the CEL came back on and the boost was gone. Funny thing is, I went and cleared the code while I was driving and the boost came back. When I would try to accelerate, vacuum would go down to “0” but no boost. But then later the CEL came back on and I lost my boost. I was getting adequate amounts of boost when accelerating. I cleared the code and the car seemed to run fine. So, I connected my ODBII and ran the torque app to observe the boost level. It would still accelerate but very sluggishly. I noticed at the time, that the car did accelerated poorly as if there was no boost. Recently, my CEL came on and when I checked the code, it came up with P0299, Turbo Underboost. I’ve been trying to research this, but I’m having difficulty finding a solution.